Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela launched his label in 1988, and he presented what remains one of the most influential runway presentations in history the following year. Staged on the disorderly and dangerous site of a former playground in a far-flung district of Paris, the show was attended not only by members of the fashion industry, but also by neighborhood children—some of whom decided to walk the runway with the models. The clothes presented came to define Margiela’s 1990s aesthetic. His “new” designs looked as if they had been pulled apart. Certain components, like sleeves and pockets, were inverted and displaced, then reconstructed with the interfacings and raw edges deliberately on view. Interior elements that are usually carefully hidden—such as linings, shoulder pads, interfacings, and padding—became both structure and ornament for Margiela. Even small details, like snap closures, were sewn on with raw basting stitches and became a form of applied ornament. These reconfigured elements reflected Margiela’s appreciation for reclamation. “I love the idea of recuperation. I believe that it is beautiful to make new things out of rejected or worn things,” he said. Margiela became the first to have his work described as “deconstructed,” a term coined by Bill Cunningham when writing about Margiela’s work for Details magazine. Although the foundation for the deconstructed style was laid by Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto as early as 1981, Margiela became its most catholic practitioner.

Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela studied fashion design at the Royal Academy. He worked for Jean Paul Gaultier prior to launching his company, Maison Martin Margiela. A notoriously elusive figure, Margiela never had his picture taken, remained backstage after his shows, and maintained all media contact via fax. Even his clothing labels were ultra-discreet: a piece of cloth, printed with only a number from zero to twenty-three (to denote a specific line), is attached to the inside with four small, white pick stitches that are visible on the outside of unlined garments. Nevertheless, Margiela became one of the most famous designers of the late twentieth century. In 1997, he was hired to design women’s wear for the venerated house of Hermès. The choice surprised fashion critics, who could not see Margiela’s avant-garde sensibilities harmonizing with the classic Hermès look. Yet the designer’s thoughtful approach to design resulted in refined, elegant collections suitable for women of all ages. He remained at Hermès until 2003.

After his own company was acquired by the Diesel brand in 2002, Margiela slowly began to retreat from his designer role. By 2009, his break from his company was formally announced. In 2015, John Galliano was appointed as creative director of Maison Margiela.