Balmain
French, founded 1945
Pierre Balmain's fashion career began with the sale of three sketches to Piguet. He worked as an assistant at Molyneux from 1934 until 1938, and for Lucien Lelong from 1941 until 1945. He and fellow designer Christian Dior were responsible for the design of Lelong’s collections.
Balmain opened his own house in 1945, with his premier runway show famously attended by friends Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas. During the following decade, Balmain’s designs flattered the womanly hourglass figure so prominent during the 1950s, and he began to use the trademark name “Jolie Madame” in reference to his collections.
During its mid-century heyday, the House of Balmain was noted for fine tailored daywear, along with ultra-feminine evening gowns. Harper’s Bazaar editor Carmel Snow reportedly told the Fashion Group in 1946 that Balmain’s were the “most feminine clothes in the world.” (Despite such praise, the often-temperamental Balmain admitted to once banning Mrs. Snow from his House for a season.)
After Pierre Balmain’s death in 1982, the collections were designed by Erik Mortensen (through 1990) and Hervé Pierre (1990–1992). Oscar de la Renta joined the house as designer in 1993, and during his nine-year tenure was praised for capturing the heritage of the brand by embracing its tradition of elegance. The arrival in 2005 of designer Christophe was another turning point in the label’s history. Decarnin has revitalized the house of Balmain, previously criticized as “dusty” by many in the fashion press, with clothing that has a modern edge. Decarnin’s designs are sexy—sometimes rock, sometimes military—but with a dash of sequined, tousled glamour. Recent collections have spearheaded trends such as sharp, 1980s-inspired padded shoulders.
Balmain opened his own house in 1945, with his premier runway show famously attended by friends Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas. During the following decade, Balmain’s designs flattered the womanly hourglass figure so prominent during the 1950s, and he began to use the trademark name “Jolie Madame” in reference to his collections.
During its mid-century heyday, the House of Balmain was noted for fine tailored daywear, along with ultra-feminine evening gowns. Harper’s Bazaar editor Carmel Snow reportedly told the Fashion Group in 1946 that Balmain’s were the “most feminine clothes in the world.” (Despite such praise, the often-temperamental Balmain admitted to once banning Mrs. Snow from his House for a season.)
After Pierre Balmain’s death in 1982, the collections were designed by Erik Mortensen (through 1990) and Hervé Pierre (1990–1992). Oscar de la Renta joined the house as designer in 1993, and during his nine-year tenure was praised for capturing the heritage of the brand by embracing its tradition of elegance. The arrival in 2005 of designer Christophe was another turning point in the label’s history. Decarnin has revitalized the house of Balmain, previously criticized as “dusty” by many in the fashion press, with clothing that has a modern edge. Decarnin’s designs are sexy—sometimes rock, sometimes military—but with a dash of sequined, tousled glamour. Recent collections have spearheaded trends such as sharp, 1980s-inspired padded shoulders.