Balmain
French, founded 1945
Balmain opened his own house in 1945, with his premier runway show famously attended by friends Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas. During the following decade, Balmain’s designs flattered the womanly hourglass figure so prominent during the 1950s, and he began to use the trademark name “Jolie Madame” in reference to his collections.
During its mid-century heyday, the House of Balmain was noted for fine tailored daywear, along with ultra-feminine evening gowns. Harper’s Bazaar editor Carmel Snow reportedly told the Fashion Group in 1946 that Balmain’s were the “most feminine clothes in the world.” (Despite such praise, the often-temperamental Balmain admitted to once banning Mrs. Snow from his House for a season.)
After Pierre Balmain’s death in 1982, the collections were designed by Erik Mortensen (through 1990) and Hervé Pierre (1990–1992). Oscar de la Renta joined the house as designer in 1993, and during his nine-year tenure was praised for capturing the heritage of the brand by embracing its tradition of elegance. The arrival in 2005 of designer Christophe Decarnin was another turning point in the label’s history. Decarnin revitalized the house of Balmain, previously criticized as “dusty” by many in the fashion press, with sexy, glamorous designs that referenced rock n’ roll and military themes and 1980s-inspired silhouettes. In 2011, Decarnin left Balmain, and his protégée, Olivier Rousteing, aged 25, was named creative director. Rousteing again revitalized Balmain, harnessing social media and celebrity—both his own and that of Balmain clients, the “Balmain Army”—to expand the brand’s influence in popular culture. His collections are generally marked by angular and body conscious silhouettes and bold patterns.
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