Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang was among the first exponents of what is sometimes called the “minimalist” aesthetic that dominated the 1990’s. In 1997, he became the first designer to transplant a major fashion house from Europe to America. By the close of the twentieth century, this Austrian-born designer had become a titan in the world of fashion.

During his heyday in the 1990s, Lang expanded his empire by consistently hitting the pop-cultural mark. Upon his arrival in the United States, he chose unorthodox advertising sites, such as the tops of New York City’s yellow cabs, which were emblazoned with his label. He also became the first designer to run his seasonal ad campaigns in National Geographic and Artforum magazines. Yet daring moves are but a fraction of Lang’s numerous contributions to fashion.

For his fall/winter 1998 collection, Lang abandoned the live fashion show; instead, he decided to live-stream his new designs online. The first designer to do so, he challenged the notoriously technophobic fashion industry to “get with it.” Next, he chose to show his spring 1999 collection in advance of the European shows, a breathtakingly bold move that rocked the New York fashion establishment. Immediately, top names like Calvin Klein followed suit. This American lead-off of the international, bi-annual showings has resulted in heightened visibility on the western side of the Atlantic.

Lang’s conceptual approach extends beyond even his most famous product: the androgynous, functional, razor-sharp suit that projects an urban, world-weary grace, devoid of ready designer identification and overt luxe. For fall 1999, Lang envisioned a high-tech uniform in orange or silver leather, lined with interior straps that turn the jacket into a cloak.

Later collections drew on a wide range of inspirations—from marine biological inspirations to surf references and Eastern European influences. The fall/winter 2003/4 collection, “Urban Warrior,” featured interchangeable components, magnetic flaps, and parachute holsters. Lang retired from fashion in 2005, and now works as an artist.