Thierry Mugler

Thierry Mugler believed that fashion should do more than simply cover the body—it should be a theatrical production. In the last two decades of the twentieth century, Mugler often based his collections on an interest in fantasy and fetishism, and his radical vision helped to propel him to superstar status. “I am trying to convey sensations and feelings,” he said. “I am always telling stories. Stories of men and women: spies, madonnas, heroes, Parisiennes or secretaries—the life of each one is an adventure.” Moreover, Mugler’s mastery of complicated cuts and precise fit proved that he possessed both imagination and technical skill.

The designer grew up in Strasbourg, France, where he attracted attention—and frequent ridicule—with his outlandish personal style. He moved to Paris at age 20, where he was employed as a window-dresser for the trendsetting boutique, Gudule. After taking several freelance design jobs, Mugler presented his first collection (using the label Café de Paris) in 1973. His sexy, modern clothes broke from current trends, but proved successful. He started a label under his own name just one year later.

Mugler became one of the most important arbiters of style during the 1980s. While fashion of the time often emphasized women’s figures, he took the look to the extreme. “Mugler’s designs usually leave no curve unaccented,” wrote Carrie Donovan. “Sometimes, they add a few more for good measure.” Even his version of the power suit was exceptional, with especially wide, angular shoulders that accentuated a wasp waist. His seductive yet wearable suits were commercially successful, but the designer also presented more fantastical styles, including his aggressively sexy “vampire” dresses, and a bustier meant to resemble the metal grille of a car.

In the 1990s, Mugler found different ways to accentuate women’s bodies through experimentations with corsetry, and his collaborations with famed corset-maker Mr. Pearl were some of his most extravagant creations. Long acclaimed for producing ready-to-wear garments of near-couture quality, Mugler presented his first true haute couture collection in 1992. He introduced his best-selling perfume, Angel, that same year.

Mugler stopped designing fashion later in his career, but he continued to apply his unconventional creativity to other pursuits, including photography and costume design. In 2010, Nicola Formichetti took over as the creative director at Mugler, where he remained until 2013. Formichetti is best known as the stylist behind Lady Gaga’s eccentric wardrobe, and the singer’s appearance in Formichetti’s first runway show helped to revive the Mugler label. In December 2013, David Koma was named the new artistic director for Mugler. He was succeeded by Casey Cadwallader in 2017.