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Dress, Dreams, and Desire: Fashion and Psychoanalysis

Exhibition Info
Dress, Dreams, and Desire exhibition introductory gallery with accessories and costume
Dress, Dreams, and Desire: Fashion and PsychoanalysisSeptember 10, 2025 - January 4, 2026

Dress, Dreams, and Desire: Fashion and Psychoanalysis is the first exhibition to explore the complex relationship between fashion and psychoanalysis. Curated by Dr. Valerie Steele, director of The Museum at FIT, the exhibition features approximately 100 looks by designers such as Alexander McQueen, Elsa Schiaparelli, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Gianni and Donatella Versace, John Galliano for Christian Dior Haute Couture, Rick Owens, Thierry Mugler, Vivienne Westwood, and many more.

Described by Suzy Menkes as "the Freud of Fashion," Steele spent more than five years working on this exhibition and the accompanying book, which draws on the evolution of psychoanalytic ideas about sexuality and the unconscious, with sections devoted to themes such as the mirror stage, the skin ego, desire, and sexual difference.

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Black two-piece dress, long sleeves, black bead trim on bodice, lace trim on collar and sleeves…
Two-piece dress
Maison Roger
c. 1877
Small beaded drawstring pouch bag with multicolor floral beadwork on beige background
Bag
1885-1895
Red silk satin corset with red damask trim at top and center front metal hook closure
Corset
c. 1889
Men's black top hat with flared crown and brim rolled at sides
Man's hat
Brooks Brothers
c. 1890
Green velvet ballgown with pearl, rhinestone, and metallic embroidery,  V-neck bodice, short sl…
Ballgown
Emile Pasquier
1889-1890
Pink floral patterend silk dress with short puffed sleeves, corset bodice and long skirt with t…
Evening dress
Joseph Johnson
c. 1895
Tall black leather boot with side buttons on scalloped edge with high heel and extreme curved i…
Boot
Jack Jacobus, Ltd.
1895-1900
Opera glasses of mother of pearl set in a brass frame with bands of brass scroll work on the hi…
Opera glasses
1895-1900
Black evening dress horizontal gold lamé bands with linear floral and Chinese motifs
Evening dress
Callot Soeurs
c.1924
Black suit with cardigan jacket, tunic sweater with black and tan stripes, black skirt
Suit
Lucien Lelong
c. 1927
Black cloche hat with short turn down brim
Hat
Lord & Taylor
c. 1929
Man’s gold silk damask dressing gown with black shawl collar and cuffs and tie waist with black…
Man's dressing gown
Charvet
c. 1930