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Power Mode

Exhibition Info
Installation image of platform with six dressed mannequins in military uniforms and military un…
Power ModeDecember 10, 2019 - May 9, 2020

Power is part identity, part behavior, and part physicality. The way we outfit ourselves can play an outsized role in conveying power to others - whether it be the pink “pussy hats” at the 2017 Women’s March or the Cleveland Cavaliers’ coordinated Thom Browne suits during the 2018 NBA playoffs. However, power is not easily defined. It is political position and economic status, but also military strength, sexual authority, rebellion, and protest. Each form of power has found sartorial expression in a variety of ways, from gray flannel suits to latex fetish wear, and from gilded brocades to distressed jeans.

Power Mode: The Force of Fashion explored the role fashion plays in establishing, reinforcing, and challenging power dynamics within society. It includes both men’s and women’s clothing from the 18th century to the present, organized thematically to concentrate on five categories: military, suits, status, rebellion, and sex. Each section investigated how certain designs and garments have come to be culturally associated with power, as well as how their meanings have evolved over time. The exhibition also examined how fashion designers have interpreted these stylistic archetypes — both to convey and to subvert power.

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Green damask shoes with Louis heel and buckle
Buckles
18th century
Green damask shoes with Louis heel and buckle
Shoes
1740-1745
Man's formal set: red collarless coat, matching long sleeve waistcoat with gilt and silver thre…
Man's coat and waistcoat
c. 1745
Ivory brocade robe a la francaise dress with red, peach, pink, blue and green floral and leaf p…
Dress
1760-1775
Black wool frock coat with wide lapels, black vest and pants, satin bow tie
Man's suit
c. 1860
Red corset with white lace trim at top, white topstitching and metal bar and loop front closure…
Corset
c. 1880
Cape and sleeves in black velvet stole, styled with yellow floor length dress
Cape
c. 1892
Cape and sleeves in black velvet stole, styled with yellow floor length dress
Two-piece dress
1893
Natural linen summer suit of jacket with puffed shoulders and navy blue lapels, floor length sk…
Suit
c. 1896
Black and red cropped jacket with braided ornamentation
Man's military jacket
c. 1900
Man’s grey prison uniform of button front stand collar jacket, matching pants, flat top hat wit…
Man's prison uniform
1913
White suit with below hip length button front jacket, matching belt and ankle length A-line ski…
Suit
1914-1916