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Augustabernard

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Augustabernard1886 - 1946

Augustabernard united her first and last names, creating a griffe that became synonymous with sophisticated elegance. She began modestly, as a copyist, reproducing the models of the great couturiers. Having acquired impressive technical skills, she opened her own salon de couture in 1923 at 3 Rue de Faubourg Saint-Honor. Connoisseurs knew of her work by the late 1920s, but she achieved her greatest fame from 1930 to 1935. Like her contemporary, Madeleine Vionnet, Augustabernard was known for her use of the bias and for the sophistication of her cutting and draping. In 1932, Vogue chose one of her neoclassical evening gowns as the most beautiful dress of the year. Her evening dresses were "grand simple affairs," while her day clothes had what Vogue called "an unpretentious elegance that makes them essentially the sort of thing well-bred, well-dressed women like to wear." Augustabernard was a skilled dressmaker - a technician - not a personality in high society. She looked like "a young woman from the country," recalled fashion journalist Lilian Farly, "and she invariably wore one of her tailored suits without any decoration." She never had many customers - only the most exclusive, with whom she worked closely. As a result, Augustabernard's clothes are now quite rare. Her couture house closed in 1935, a victim of the economic depression.

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Fitted calf-length day dress in a black and white patterned diagonal stripe with a cowl neck an…
Dress
Augustabernard
1929
71.268.3
Black silk crepe day dress printed with off white floral stripe, diagonal placement from bias cut; wide cowl neck F and B, draped into self tie at right shoulder; long straight sleeves; calf length shift, semi-fitted with pintucks along stripe lines at midriff; couture
Back view of black floor-length evening dress with deep V-back and thick bronze stripes across …
Evening dress
Augustabernard
1933
70.57.65
Long evening dress in bias-cut black silk crepe with wide bronze lamé ribbon appliqué; bodice with vertical bands on low cowl front, horizontal bands on deep V back, elbow-length stylized dolman sleeves; long slightly flared skirt with released inverted pleat at CB calf; LS hooks and eyes; couture
Off-white sleeveless evening dress with flared skirt and spiral ruffle from hip to train
Evening dress
Augustabernard
1934
93.71.4
Off white tulle evening dress, sleeveless with V-neck; wide flared skirt with spiral ruffle from hip to train; coordinating off white taffeta slip; Augustabernard American liscensed copy
Brown silk sleeveless below ankle evening gown with bright green velvet neckline and oversize b…
Evening dress
Augustabernard
Spring 1934
2009.1.2
Bias cut sleeveless evening gown in brown silk charmeuse with shoulders and neckline of bodice in bright green velvet gathered to form oversize self-bow at front: fitted dress; v-shape neckline created by green velvet gathered to form off-center oversize bow at front neckline; deep v-shape neckline at back; CF and CB seams; waist seam falls at natural waist; multiple hook and eye closure at L side bodice; inverted godet pleat at CB hem; tucks along inside hem; below ankle length