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Elsa Schiaparelli

Artist Info
Elsa Schiaparelli1890 - 1973

Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) is among the most original figures in the history of twentieth-century fashion. In a forty year career that began in 1926, she is best remembered for her Surrealist-inspired designs of the 1930s. Despite the fact that Schiaparelli worked in the traditional method of applying decorative, two-dimensional images to the surfaces of her clothing rather than employing innovative construction techniques, she was a revolutionary designer who became the first couturier to integrate sophisticated and complex artistic concepts into highly wearable material. Schiaparelli viewed the creation of clothing in terms of artistic inspiration and regarded fashion as much more than a craft, stating in her autobiography, Shocking Life, that "dress designing . . . is to me not a profession, but an art."

Born to a conservative, aristocratic Roman family, Elsa Maria Luisa Schiaparelli exhibited early signs of rebelliousness and artistic inclination that would become the cornerstones of her creativity. At age fourteen, for example, she was sent to a convent for publishing a set of erotic poems; she was released only after going on a hunger strike. Ten years later, she married the eccentric theosophist Compte William de Wendt de Kerlor—a mere two days after hearing his lecture in London on "the powers of the soul over the body, magic, and eternal youth." Within two years, the couple moved to New York, had a child, and divorced. With no money and an infant to support, Schiaparelli took a series of odd jobs that in 1922 landed her in Paris, the city she would thereafter consider her home. By 1926, she began a business selling chic and playful sportswear. Five years later, at the height of the Depression, Schiaparelli opened her couture house on the rue de la Paix.

During the apex of her creativity, the years 1934 to 1940, Schiaparelli incorporated Surrealist motifs in her designs and collaborated with such artists as Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau, as well as artisans such as Albert Lesage and Jean Clement. Schiaparelli was enthralled by the Surrealists’ exploration of the unconscious and their creation of works filled with strange, and sometimes shocking, dream imagery. Unlike the male Surrealists, however, Schiaparelli did not focus on issues of sexual repression and violence. Instead, she explored questions of female disguise and masquerade, distancing herself from Dali and Max Ernst, among others, by incorporating more playful and witty aspects of Surrealism's eroticism. Beginning in 1937, Schiaparelli pioneered the concept of seasonal collections created around a single, unified theme such as: "Circus," "Butterflies," "Pagan," "Astrology," "Commedia dell' Arte," and "Music." Not only did these collections convey Schiaparelli's originality, they presaged the current trend among designers to create thematic runway presentations.

The label was revived in 2013 with Christian Lacroix designing a Couture capsule collection, at which time former Rochas designer Marco Zanini was appointed creative director until 2014. The house of Schiaparelli hired Valentino's Bertrand Guyon late in 2014 after Zanini's abrupt departure after two collections.

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Brown chestnut shaped compact hanging by a gold chain with thick links
Compact
Elsa Schiaparelli
1930s
81.61.24
Compact, brown enameled brass; chestnut shape and color with chain and beltcup; down puff, inside mirror
Black and red windowpane check button front  jacket and matching skirt
Suit
Elsa Schiaparelli
c. 1937
87.70.1
Suit in black wool with small red windowpane check; fitted jacket with high, wide shawl collar, four shaped flap pockets, black plastic S shaped buttons; bias cut calf length skirt with stylized waist treatment, integral belt attached in V at center front waistband, buttoning at center back
Black and red metallic striped single button jacket and matching skirt
Suit
Elsa Schiaparelli
Winter 1935-1936
87.70.2
Evening suit in black wool woven with horizontal stripes of red synthetic yarns and strings of jet beads; jacket with band collar and long raglan sleeves cut in one with back shoulder yoke, single red jeweled CF button; straight skirt with red plastic side zipper
Full length black sleeveless evening dress with beige lily print spiralin from hem to left shou…
Evening dress
Elsa Schiaparelli
Fall 1935
71.263.1
Spiral cut evening dress in black rayon noile with large border print of lily sprays in beige, brown and blue; long, sleeveless sheath with high bateau neck and cape effect over left shoulder
Purple and black tweed suit jacket with brown leather buttons and brown skirt
Suit
Elsa Schiaparelli
Fall 1936
78.125.1
Purple and black tweed / plaid suit with brown velveteen notched collar and pocket flaps, brown leather buttons; padded shoulders, fitted with princess seams, long sleeves; slightly flared skirt with back bias pleat panel
Black quilted silk bag in the shape of a vase with purple and green ribbon bow on foot and wrap…
Bag
Elsa Schiaparelli
c. 1938
P87.19.2
Vase bag in quilted black silk satin bag in the shape of an urn with purple and green satin ribbon on handles and around foot of urn; mirror
Black pin of thee concentric hearts with red grosgrain ribbon trim in four lengths
Brooch
Elsa Schiaparelli
c. 1938
74.135.20
Black plaster pin of three diminishing valentine hearts and red moiré grosgrain ribbon trim hanging from back bar (in military style)
Bag in the shape of a bouquet of purple, yellow and white pansy flowers with gathered green ste…
Bag
Elsa Schiaparelli
c. 1938
P87.19.1
Bouquet of pansies bag, drawstring pouch covered with violet, yellow and white velvet pansy flowers with green stems joined at bottom point and forming top tuft handle
Pair of brooches in light and dark pink in the shape of orchids with green leaves outlined in g…
Brooch
Gripoix
c. 1938
74.135.22
Pair of orchid clips in light and dark pink swirled pate de verre glass; three pointed large and small petals, green leaves, on gilt metal
Ivory knee length dress with black butterfly print and turtleneck collar
Dress
Elsa Schiaparelli
1937
83.130.10
Ivory silk crepe dress with black butterfly print and stylized turtleneck collar shirred at CF and back, short sleeves shaped with inverted pleat, bias cut, with slightly flared skirt and large off white plastic back neck zipper
Back view of bronze and black taffeta brocaded short sleeve V-neck floor length dress with bust…
Evening dress
Elsa Schiaparelli
c.1939
PL74.1.55
Long evening dress in bronze and black shot taffeta brocaded with polka dots; fitted, boned bodice with stylized sweetheart front, V-back neck, and cap sleeves; long bias cut straight skirt with long split bustle pouf at CB released into accordion pleated train; black braid inner waistband; couture
Dark pink sleeveless floor length evening dress with camisole straps, sweetheart neckline and p…
Evening dress
Elsa Schiaparelli
Summer 1937
2016.55.2
Evening dress in shocking pink silk crepe, with textured purple silk velvet over bodice, visible plastic center back zipper, coordinating long silk crepe slip.