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Grès

Artist Info
GrèsFrench

Madame Alix Grès was one of the twentieth century's most brilliant couturiers. During a career that spanned six decades, beginning around 1930 and lasting until 1988, she developed unique construction techniques that allowed her to craft garments of exquisite sculptural beauty. Born Germaine Emilie Krebs in Paris on November 30, 1903, she renamed herself "Alix" in the early 1930s and appropriated the last name "Barton." In 1937, she married a Russian artist who signed his paintings "Grès," and she took that name when she opened her own couture house. Madame Grès's "Grecian" gowns are readily identifiable examples of her modern distillation of classicism; two other styles that define her work are her three-dimensional, sculptural garments and her geometric designs based on ethnic costume. She is referred to as the great "sculptress" of haute couture because she was able to puff, mold, and shape large quantities of fabric so that they would billow dramatically and boldly around the body. Grès relied upon the inherent structure of fabrics such as paper silk taffetas or heavy woolens to give her cocktail dresses, capes, and coats their dramatic silhouettes. Poor management and the sale of her company eventually led to its closure in 1988. She died penniless one week before her ninetieth birthday, an event that her only daughter, Anne, inexplicably kept hidden for over a year. Madame Grès's influence has been great and her innovations have earned unparalleled respect, but the details of her life are muddled and confusing. She remains a mysterious figure in fashion history.

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Long, red flared evening coat, cuffed kimono sleeve variation
Evening coat
Grès
c. 1937
81.61.10
Long, flared evening coat in red wool twill with silk satin lining, collarless fitted bodice with long, cuffed kimono sleeve variation, pointed waist, CF hooks and eyes
Black long sleeve blouse with wrap style front that crosses over bust
Blouse
Alix
1937
74.115.4
Black silk jersey tunic; neck swathed with back tied scarf from high surplice front wrapping from center back, under arm, under bust and around neck; long sleeve set in with pointed shoulder cap and top seam with additional set in piece with open seam underneath to wrist; tunic is draped to center back to zipper closing into fishtail
Sheer black floor-length evening dress with v-neck and pleating across midriff
Evening dress
Alix
1938
70.57.66
Floor length evening dress in sheer black silk jersey with short tucked sleeves, plunging V-neck, vertical cartridge pleating at front midriff, and flared skirt
Black floor-length sleevless evening dress with halter neckline and skirt gathered and draped a…
Evening dress
Alix
1938
70.57.68
Backless evening wrap dress in sheer black silk jersey, with halter style neckline and floor length flared skirt draped at left hip; couture
Back view of yellow sleeveless evening gown with deep V-back, gathering at waist and shirring o…
Evening gown
Alix
c. 1940
2015.77.1
Acid yellow sleeveless evening gown in semi sheer silk jersey with full flared skirt, shirring at front side waist and back
Dark red and red velvet, floor length evening gown with diamond pattern skirt and matching crop…
Evening set
Grès
c. 1942
89.74.1
Set; evening gown and jacket in dark red and red velvet; sleeveless evening gown with patchwork skirt and matching cropped jacket
Brown, knee length hooded coat with wide, lightly padded shoulders and self tie bow at collar
Coat
Grès
1942-1943
2004.16.1
Hooded coat in brown wool faux astrakhan woven pile; tapered raglan sleeve variation with wide, lightly padded shoulders; knee length, semi-fitted, slightly flared below hip; pointed hood constructed as wide self band, open at back when covering head; brown silk taffeta lining and ties at CF neck
Black long sleeve allover gathered below-the-knee dress with v-neck
Dress
Grès
1942
P90.83.1
Black long sleeve fully shirred / pleated day dress with self tie belt, V-neck, below-the-knee length
White collarless coat, short sleeves, and single button at waist
Coat
Grès
c.1947
72.81.10
Unlined white linen coat; collarless neck with small revers; single button at waist; bodice cut straight in front, bias in back with yoke; deep cap sleeves; half circle skirt with pockets in front seams
Back view of grey hooded below-the-knee coat with wide puffy 3/4 sleeves
Coat
Grès
1947
91.47.1
Grey wool twill set. Coat: wide A-line front, flared back, slanted besom pocket left and right front hip, one center front neckline button, hooded, long extra wide lantern sleeve with inverted pleat at shoulder, diamond underarm gusset. Matching skirt: three gore wide A-line, left front zipper, 3 cm grosgrain waistband, darted to shape.
Red velvet knee length dress with silk ruched bodice and pleated skirt
Dress
Grès
1948-1949
91.253.1
Cocktail dress in deep red velvet and knife pleated silk jersey, illusion of strapless draped jersey bodice front attached to velvet capelet with curved lapels and cap sleeves; calf length skirt with full jersey front overskirt, flared velvet back; self-covered contour buckle belt
Cape coat of yellow and grey plaid with crossed and buttoned band collar and narrow sleeves
Coat
Grès
c. 1950
71.265.21
Cape coat of yellow / grey plaid wool / mohair; crossed and buttoned band collar; narrow sleeves; tucks at bust - unusual and intricate cut