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Pierre Balmain

Artist Info
Pierre Balmain1914 - 1982

“I do not remember a time when I was not interested in dress design and the intriguing play of materials against the feminine form,” said Pierre Balmain. His fashion career began with the sale of three sketches to Piguet. He worked as an assistant at Molyneux from 1934 until 1938, crediting the designer as a mentor. Balmain did not hold the same esteem for his next employer, Lucien Lelong, whom he called “no more than a dealer in dresses.” From 1941 until 1945, he and fellow designer Christian Dior were responsible for the design of Lelong’s collections. During that period, Balmain’s most successful design was a black crepe afternoon dress called “Little Profit”—a design that he later referred to as “big profit.”

Balmain opened his own house in 1945, with his premier runway show famously attended by friends Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas. During the following decade, Balmain’s designs flattered the womanly hourglass figure so prominent during the 1950s, and he began to use the trademark name “Jolie Madame” in reference to his collections.

During its mid-century heyday, the House of Balmain was noted for fine tailored daywear, along with ultra-feminine evening gowns. Harper’s Bazaar editor Carmel Snow reportedly told the Fashion Group in 1946 that Balmain’s were the “most feminine clothes in the world.” (Despite such praise, the often-temperamental Balmain admitted to once banning Mrs. Snow from his House for a season.)

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Strapless floor length pale pink ballgown, white feathers stitched on full circle skirt to crea…
Evening gown
Orcilia
1946-1947
80.304.1
Copy of Pierre Balmain's Angel Dress, strapless floor length ballgown in pale pink tulle with white feathers hand stitched on a full circle ballroom skirt, feathers are applied lightly at the upper skirt and more heavily clustered at lower skirt. The effect is feathers cascading down the dress; fitted, strapless, boned bodice in shirred tulle, diagonally draped in surplice style at bodice front
Cream evening dress with black dotted net and cream floral and ribbon designs over top, sleevel…
Evening dress
Balmain
c. 1948
72.109.1
Sleeveless short evening dress of two layers of black net / dotted net over silk organdy; scoop neck with wide V neck in back; boned net corset of cream net; with white petticoat of nylon stiffening, one large flounce covered with three layers of gathered net
Light yellow fitted suit jacket with banded tan and yellow skirt
Suit
Balmain
Spring 1948
83.5.1
Suit; light yellow fitted jacket and full circle skirt in wool with contrast tan bands
Strapless evening dress with pink satin corset bodice and off-white full skirt  trimmed with  f…
Evening dress
Bergdorf Goodman
1949
91.244.1
Strapless evening dress with pale pink satin corset style bodice and full skirt in off white net over taffeta, trimmed with chicken feathers at neckline and on skirt with ombré effect; cape in pale pink satin, lined in off white
Set of grey wool 3/4 sleeve top with black sequin and bead trim, full length grey chiffon skirt…
Set
Balmain
Fall 1951
84.125.7
Grey wool knit top; black sequin and bead trim; convertible collar; fitted with waist and bust darts; long kimono sleeve with gusset; center front zipper closing. Grey silk chiffon skirt; 2.3 cm waistband; full flared; iridescent grey taffeta drop lining; center back snap closing. Grey metallic leather belt; self covered buckle; 3 cm.
Strapless floor length evening dress with blue bodice and full grey/green skirt with blue under…
Evening dress
Balmain
Fall 1951
84.125.3
Corset evening dress; blue taffeta boned bodice with pointed and laced back, grey / green velvet full skirt with waist yoke and blue taffeta underskirt panel; silver ball buttons
Black coat with a high collar with bow, long sleeves with pointed cuff, pocket over hips, and f…
Coat
Balmain
Fall 1951
71.265.16
Black princess coat cut in alternating panels of velvet and gors de londres; high boned collar with bow; long sleeves with pointed cuff; flap pockets over rounded hips; full skirt
Ivory tulle floor length ballgown with off-the-shoulder halter style bodice and full skirt
Evening dress
Balmain
c. 1955
76.42.24
Ball gown in draped ivory tulle; boned bodice with halter styling, full skirt with three layers of shirred net; left side zipper
Tan calf-length evening gown with beige bodice trim, thin shoulder straps and full tutu style s…
Evening dress
Balmain
Fall 1956
84.125.5
Evening gown of tan, beige net; waltz length; camisole bodice with self straps, horizontally pleated; full gathered skirt (tutu) in four net layers (tulle); attached white taffeta petticoat; center back zipper closure.
Off-white silk sleeveless dress with embroidered pink, green, blue and brown floral design, to-…
Cocktail dress
Balmain
Fall 1957
2007.22.9
Cocktail dress in champagne / beige silk satin embroidered with large floral design in silk floss, chenille and sequins, in shades of pink, green, blue and brown; sleeveless with wide décolleté, fitted princess line dress with calf length bell skirt
Ivory cocktail dress embroidered in metallic floral design, blue feathers and beads with thin c…
Cocktail dress
Balmain
Fall 1958
92.120.1
Ivory silk satin cocktail dress symmetrically embroidered with floral design in gold and silver metallic thread, green silk, beige chenille, blue feathers, and iridescent sequins and beads; fitted camisole bodice; pegged, tapered skirt; couture
Black and off-white plaid strapless evening gown, floor length, with wide black buckled cummerb…
Evening dress
Balmain
Fall 1960
84.103.5
Strapless evening gown with black velvet plaid on off white silk satin; draped, boned bodice, long bouffant skirt with bias cut front and trained back fly panel cut on straight grain, with velvet center insert; wide buckled cummerbund with crisscrossed back; white net underskirt