Medium: Cream silk satin and black velvet; net underskirt

Date: Fall 1960

Country: France

Credit: Gift of Mrs. Roger Tuteur

Pierre Balmain credited his mentor, Edward Molyneux, with instilling in him "a taste for beige and a horror of gaudy details." This elegant dress, of opulent black velvet plaid on off-white silk satin, is a testament to that conviction. Although Balmain's creations were often beautifully decorated, he was equally concerned that garments be designed and constructed well, an idea perhaps rooted in his love of architecture. Here, the soft, sinuous draping of the dress' strapless bodice belies the structured boning within. Balmain has played with the grain of the fabric, using bias in front and straight grain on a back fly panel, accented only by a vertical velvet inset. The broad, buckled cummerbund, in combination with the dress' bouffant skirt, creates the classic hourglass shape. Said Balmain, "I always try to remember that there is a female form inside the dress, and this must not be disguised."

Object Number: 84.103.5