Medium: Lavender and yellow silk chiffon, synthetic taffeta and net, horsehair

Date: 1956

Country: France

Credit: Gift of Lady Arlene Kieta

The design techniques of Jean Dessès often borrowed elements from the classical dress of Greek statuary. The horizontal pleating seen here at the bodice of this chiffon dress creates a wrapped effect, reminiscent of draped cloth, accentuated by a fly-away panel at the back and extending from the pleated shoulder straps. The layering of lavender and yellow chiffon creates the appearance of an ombré pattern, with color gradually darkening or lightening depending on how the fabric is manipulated. Despite the soft, fluid nature of Dessès's signature fabric, his dresses retained a hard understructure, represented here by a corseted inner bodice and layered crinolines of yellow net and horsehair.

Object Number: 96.112.1