Vivienne Westwood
British, 1941 - 2022
Over her forty year career, Vivienne Westwood has become known as the “Grand Dame” of British fashion—a remarkable transition from her roots as a purveyor of Punk style. Vivienne Isabel Swire was born in Derbyshire, England, in 1941. In 1965, she met a young art student named Malcolm McLaren, and soon they began to sell their 1950s-inspired clothing from a small London shop.
Over the course of the 1970s, Westwood and McLaren’s radical, antiestablishment creations distinguished them as originators of London Punk style. Their work was characterized by rips, chains, pornographic imagery, and even chicken bones. These anarchistic designs continue to have tremendous influence on contemporary fashion.
In the early 1980s, Westwood and McLaren began to focus on loosely-fitted, romantic styles inspired by historical fashion and world cultures. They presented their first runway collection, Pirates, in 1981, followed by equally imaginative collections with names like Savage and Buffalo. Westwood and McLaren’s clothing was becoming more and more successful, but they always remained one step ahead of trends. “I do take influence from the street,” Westwood admitted. “But I give more than I take.”
Westwood and McLaren ended their partnership by 1984, and Westwood began to experiment with a more feminine style. In 1985, she presented her first major solo collection, Mini Crini, which featured short, flirty skirts based on the nineteenth-century cage crinoline (hoop skirt). Westwood’s fascination with historical dress also led to a revival of the corset, and her form-fitting designs showcased her mastery of cut and construction. Westwood claimed that “there is nothing more subversive than to be orthodox,” and she began to champion traditional British fabrics such as tartan and Harris Tweed.
In 1990, Westwood was named British Designer of the Year. Her increasingly opulent, historically-inspired designs were in direct contrast to 1990s minimalism, yet her work continued to be influential. In 2006, Westwood was furthered honored when she received the title of Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire. She continues to create clothing that is at once playful, provocative, and sophisticated, and she remains true to her progressive mentality: today, Westwood is also recognized as a powerful advocate for human rights and environmental responsibility.
Over the course of the 1970s, Westwood and McLaren’s radical, antiestablishment creations distinguished them as originators of London Punk style. Their work was characterized by rips, chains, pornographic imagery, and even chicken bones. These anarchistic designs continue to have tremendous influence on contemporary fashion.
In the early 1980s, Westwood and McLaren began to focus on loosely-fitted, romantic styles inspired by historical fashion and world cultures. They presented their first runway collection, Pirates, in 1981, followed by equally imaginative collections with names like Savage and Buffalo. Westwood and McLaren’s clothing was becoming more and more successful, but they always remained one step ahead of trends. “I do take influence from the street,” Westwood admitted. “But I give more than I take.”
Westwood and McLaren ended their partnership by 1984, and Westwood began to experiment with a more feminine style. In 1985, she presented her first major solo collection, Mini Crini, which featured short, flirty skirts based on the nineteenth-century cage crinoline (hoop skirt). Westwood’s fascination with historical dress also led to a revival of the corset, and her form-fitting designs showcased her mastery of cut and construction. Westwood claimed that “there is nothing more subversive than to be orthodox,” and she began to champion traditional British fabrics such as tartan and Harris Tweed.
In 1990, Westwood was named British Designer of the Year. Her increasingly opulent, historically-inspired designs were in direct contrast to 1990s minimalism, yet her work continued to be influential. In 2006, Westwood was furthered honored when she received the title of Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire. She continues to create clothing that is at once playful, provocative, and sophisticated, and she remains true to her progressive mentality: today, Westwood is also recognized as a powerful advocate for human rights and environmental responsibility.