Isabel Toledo

Isabel Toledo was one of the most creative forces on the contemporary fashion scene. She launched her first collection in 1986 after attending both the Fashion Institute of Technology and Parsons School of Design, yet she credited her real training to an internship with Diana Vreeland at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Toledo was described as a “cult figure” by the New York Times, and her work was lauded primarily by fashion insiders for decades. She garnered mainstream media attention in January 2009 with the appearance of her “lemongrass” ensemble, made for First Lady Michelle Obama to wear at her husband’s inaugural ceremony. Toledo’s production output was small, and the Cuban-born, New York-based designer – who preferred the title of “dressmaker” or “engineer” – valued meticulous craftsmanship and innovation over building a name brand. When Toledo’s work is viewed cumulatively, the most striking aspect is the incredible range of creative styles, techniques, and materials she embraced. Draped jersey dresses, structured woolen coats, billowing quilted skirts, fine and feathery lace dresses, and ruched-silk evening ensembles are but a tiny sampling of her output. Although her range of design styles is broad, all of Toledo’s work possesses an exquisiteness that is akin to haute couture. At the same time, her garments are characteristically American in their ease of movement and comfort. In 2008, The Museum at FIT honored her with its Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion. After more than three decades of success, Toledo died of breast cancer in 2019.