Chloé
French, founded 1952
Gaby Aghion and her partner, Jacques Lenoir, founded the groundbreaking Chloé label in 1952. They were among the first designers to introduce an unprecedented conceptual innovation into French fashion: luxury ready-to-wear. Chloé’s modern, elegant creations were of higher quality and style than the clothing sold by dressmakers, but were not as prohibitively expensive as couture. The concept of high-end ready-to-wear was soon adopted by leading couturiers, and today it is an integral component the fashion industry.
Chloé’s innovations were also aesthetic. In contrast to prevailing 1950s fashion trends, Aghion offered unstructured, informal clothing styles for a clientele that was “youthful, modern, and slightly audacious in spirit.” After designing Chloé’s first few collections herself, Aghion employed a group of freelance designers, including Gérard Pipart, who would help to sustain and develop her vision for the label. In 1964, the hiring of Karl Lagerfeld firmly established Chloé as a leading fashion house. Lagerfeld was just over thirty years old when he began his tenure. He became known for his streamlined silhouettes and striking prints, which were frequently inspired by his admiration for Art Deco. He also experimented with new construction techniques, such as the removal of linings, to make his designs more fluid and lightweight. Lagerfeld’s body-skimming, sensual creations helped to define the effortless glamour of the 1970s.
Lagerfeld left Chloé in 1983, but then returned from 1992 to 1997. In his absence, Chloé furthered its reputation for hiring and nurturing young talent. Martine Sitbon headed the label in the mid-1980s, and Stella McCartney took over following her graduation from Central Saint Martins in 1997. McCartney, in particular, was credited with recapturing Chloé’s youthful, bohemian spirit, as well as with boosting the label’s name recognition. The introduction of accessories—that are at once edgy and incredibly chic—has further elevated the label’s status. Chloé’s current designer, Hannah MacGibbon, is known for updating the classic, sleek styles of the company’s past, while firmly maintaining its relevance to the present.
Chloé’s innovations were also aesthetic. In contrast to prevailing 1950s fashion trends, Aghion offered unstructured, informal clothing styles for a clientele that was “youthful, modern, and slightly audacious in spirit.” After designing Chloé’s first few collections herself, Aghion employed a group of freelance designers, including Gérard Pipart, who would help to sustain and develop her vision for the label. In 1964, the hiring of Karl Lagerfeld firmly established Chloé as a leading fashion house. Lagerfeld was just over thirty years old when he began his tenure. He became known for his streamlined silhouettes and striking prints, which were frequently inspired by his admiration for Art Deco. He also experimented with new construction techniques, such as the removal of linings, to make his designs more fluid and lightweight. Lagerfeld’s body-skimming, sensual creations helped to define the effortless glamour of the 1970s.
Lagerfeld left Chloé in 1983, but then returned from 1992 to 1997. In his absence, Chloé furthered its reputation for hiring and nurturing young talent. Martine Sitbon headed the label in the mid-1980s, and Stella McCartney took over following her graduation from Central Saint Martins in 1997. McCartney, in particular, was credited with recapturing Chloé’s youthful, bohemian spirit, as well as with boosting the label’s name recognition. The introduction of accessories—that are at once edgy and incredibly chic—has further elevated the label’s status. Chloé’s current designer, Hannah MacGibbon, is known for updating the classic, sleek styles of the company’s past, while firmly maintaining its relevance to the present.