72.66.6

Images (5)

Designing Women_14 Left to right: Fernande Burel, Tea Gown, Paris, circa 1900 (2003.12.1); Jeanne Paquin, Afternoon dress, Paris, circa 1902 (72.66.6); Image by Henri Gervex, "Cinq Heures Chez Paquin" (Five Hours at the House of Paquin), 1906; Jeanne Paquin, Evening Cape, Paris, 1897 (P83.19.7); Callot Soeurs Evening dress, Paris, circa 1909 (P90.2.3) and Afternoon dress, Paris, summer 1917 (86.156.1)

Designing Women_03 Left to right: Fernande Burel, Tea Gown, Paris, circa 1900 (2003.12.1); Jeanne Paquin, Afternoon dress, Paris, circa 1902 (72.66.6); Image by Henri Gervex, "Cinq Heures Chez Paquin" (Five Hours at the House of Paquin), 1906; Jeanne Paquin, Evening Cape, Paris, 1897 (P83.19.7)

Arbiters_59 Left to right 72.66.6 (dress), P83.19.12 (hat case), P92.34.6 (textile wall), 95.145.13 (lace and satin dress), 95.145.10 (wedding dress), X321.7A (textile wall), P91.76.1 (black dress), 71.268.7 (floral dress), P89.25.1A & F (textile wall), 84.201.1 (pink dress), 83.219.6 (dress), P83.39.14, P83.39.16, 77.178.10 (hats case)

Object: Afternoon dress

Brand: Paquin (French, 1891 - 1956)

Date: c. 1902

Medium: Point d’esprit, silk taffeta, grosgrain ribbon, and lace

Country: France

Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. William Rockefeller & Ms. Harriet VanKennen

Object number: 72.66.6

DescriptionShort sleeved dinner dress bodice of dotted black net and lace over black taffeta; V yoke and high boned collar of lace over cream chiffon; V flange of shirred lace and net edged in black ribbon; puffed sleeves wired at shoulder; attached taffeta belt pointed at front. Matching skirt with small train; double flounce hem edged with box pleated ribbon, black chiffon and taffeta lining.

Label Text:The Rockefeller family member who wore this dress would have made a striking figure among the muted pastel tones of Belle Époque fashion. Jeanne Paquin layered black fabrics and trims of varying weights and finishes to achieve nuanced variations in pattern, shade, and texture. At first glance, the detailed embellishment appears subtle and restrained, adding to the refined understatement of this fashionable black dress.

Exhibitions:

Arbiters of Style
Designing Women: Fashion Creators and Their Interiors