72.61.91

Images (5)

Exhibitionism_40 Left to right 2007.23.2 (beaded dress), 2007.2.1 (black ensemble), 99.80.1 (velvet dress), 2008.5.1 (hat case), 2018.3.2 (earrings case), 2008.55.1 (gown with red), 2010.37.12 (denim dress), 2009.62.1 (dress), 2010.57.1 (black ensemble), 2009.75.1 (coat enemble hidden), 2009.61.1 (pink jacket ensemble), 2008.57.1 (black ensemble with hat), 72.61.91 (white dress), 88.157.3 (top and skirt), 71.265.13 (red dress), 87.16.1 (shoes case), P86.52.1 (bag case), 86.10.1 (paper dress), P85.29.1 (suit)

Exhibitionism_25 Left to right P83.39.7 (dress), 72.61.91 (white dress), 88.157.3 (top and skirt), 2015.8.1 (red ensemble), 2002.36.1 (red cape), 2008.45.1 (pants ensemble and shoes case), 2005.24.1A (textile hanging), 2013.2.1 (gold and velvet gown), 2010.37.12 (denim dress back), 2005.2.1 (purple gown), 2002.18.1 (black dress), 91.241.128 (gold gown)

Exhibitionism_19 Left to right P83.39.7 (dress), 72.61.91 (white dress), 88.157.3 (top and skirt)

Object: Dress

Designer: Claire McCardell (1905 - 1958)

Date: 1951

Medium: Cotton piqué

Country: USA

Credit Line: Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Adrian McCardell

Object number: 72.61.91

DescriptionWhite cotton piqué two-piece dress; tuxedo halter top with wingtip collar and self bow tie, long full skirt with square side extensions forming back bustle

Label Text:Claire McCardell drew inspiration from formal men's attire in her choice of white cotton piqué for this dress. The large scale of the piqué adds to its playful quality. McCardell also borrowed from menswear for the halter top, which references the backless waistcoat. The formal white tie inspired the halter's neckline and the shaped collar is a classic McCardell detail - when tied it becomes a perfect bow. Completing the ensemble is a dirndl skirt cut from a large, square piece of fabric. The top is partially gathered and stitched to the waistband while the rest can be left to drape softly at the sides or elegantly draped toward the back and buttoned. Finishing details are the hidden side seam pockets. In McCardell's book, What Shall I Wear, a list of glossary terms known as "McCardellisms" defines "pocket" as "a necessity in every dress, usually useful, but sometimes a line to mark a hip bone - also a place to put your hand." The color white symbolizes purity and projects youthful and carefree style. White cotton appeared in fashion in the late 18th century, becoming a desirable fashion fabric due, in part, to newly developed bleaching techniques.

In Collection(s)

1950s

Exhibitions:

Claire McCardell and the American Look
Exhibitionism: 50 Years of the Museum at FIT
Three Women: Madeleine Vionnet, Claire McCardell and Rei Kawakubo
American Beauty