Object: Suit
Brand:
Chanel
(French, founded 1914)
Designer:
Gabrielle Chanel
(1883 - 1971)
Date: 1959
Medium: Black and white check wool and silk
Country: France
Credit Line: Gift of Lauren Bacall
Object number: 69.161.26
DescriptionSuit in black and white Prince of Wales check wool with contrast collar, lapels, lining, trim and shell in large check silk; semi fitted jacket with large and small curved flap patch pockets, turn back split cuff; straight skirt; cropped shell with princess seams; couture
Label Text:Chanel was long enamored of British menswear, adopting elements from the bespoke suits and sportswear favored by the upper class. The fabric used for this suit is a traditional Glenurquhart plaid, made fashionable by Edward XIII, Prince of Wales, with whom Chanel was acquainted in the 1930s. She meticulously matched the plaid to create a balanced design, using the large check pattern as a striking counterpoint, manipulating it as bias trim around the pockets and buttons. Chanel's refined perfectionism is further demonstrated by the coordinating blouse, which is bias-cut in front for a fitted silhouette while the back is cut on the straight grain to allow for a blouson effect, the soft shape highlighted by a bow at the waistband.
Relationships
Associated/Associated
In Collection(s)
Exhibitions:
- Fashion & Textile History Gallery First Rotation
- Paris Refashioned, 1957-1968