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91.47.1

91.47.1

Object: Coat
Designer: (French)
Date: 1947
Medium: Wool twill
Country: France
Credit Line: Gift of Mrs. Rebecca Stickey-Hamilton
Object number: 91.47.1
DescriptionGrey wool twill set. Coat: wide A-line front, flared back, slanted besom pocket left and right front hip, one center front neckline button, hooded, long extra wide lantern sleeve with inverted pleat at shoulder, diamond underarm gusset. Matching skirt: three gore wide A-line, left front zipper, 3 cm grosgrain waistband, darted to shape.
Label Text:The day coat was a staple of the Grès oeuvre in the 1950s. This hooded gray version made of dense, brushed wool has a strong volumetric quality obtained from an elementary combination of two-dimensional, circular pattern pieces, rather than by molding the material into shape. The body of the coat was made from two huge, half-round cuts of fabric that were seamed and then cut to accommodate the head and arms. A trapezoidal piece of the gray wool was attached at the armholes to make the upper part of the sleeves, and a circle of fabric was sewn to the end of each trapezoid. The large amount of material gives the coat its fullness, while the clever treatment of the sleeves allows them to billow on their own.

In Collection(s)
Exhibitions:
  • Madame Grès