P86.31.3

Images (4)

Fundamental Forms. From left to right: dress by Madame Grès, 1978 (Angel Wing, 86.69.11); dress by Yves Saint Laurent, c.1968 (Bell, 2022.65.15); dress by Ossie Clark, c.1970 (Bishop, 94.111.1); dress by Ann Demeulemeester, fall 2001 (Batwing, 2002.17.1); man’s robe, circa 1925 (Kimono, 90.190.15); evening coat by Vionnet, 1938 (Lantern, P86.31.3); jacket, c.1895 (Leg-of-mutton, 91.20.3); suit by Fendi, c.1993 (Raglan, 2014.21.2).

From left to right: dress by Madame Grès, 1978 (86.69.11); dress by Yves Saint Laurent, c.1968 (2022.65.15); dress by Ossie Clark, c.1970 (94.111.1); dress by Ann Demeulemeester, fall 2001 (2002.17.1); man’s robe, c.1925 (90.190.15); evening coat by Vionnet, 1938 (P86.31.3); jacket, c.1895 (91.20.3); suit by Fendi, c.1993 (2014.21.2).

From left to right: dress by Ann Demeulemeester, fall 2001 (2002.17.1); man’s robe, c.1925 (90.190.15); evening coat by Vionnet, 1938 (P86.31.3); jacket, c.1895 (91.20.3); suit by Fendi, c.1993 (2014.21.2).

Object: Evening coat

Designer: Vionnet (1876 - 1975)

Date: 1938

Medium: Silk taffeta

Country: France

Credit Line: Museum purchase

Object number: P86.31.3

DescriptionLong, flared evening clutch coat in black silk taffeta, with stylized elbow-length barrel cut lantern sleeve and long self loop Möbius band scarf collar; bias cut, unlined; couture

Label Text:Lantern sleeves reach their peak fullness just below the elbow. The fabric is then tightly gathered into a band around or above the wrist. This style is often crafted from several pattern pieces to create a more precise, sculptural shape, as couturier Madeleine Vionnet demonstrated in this example.

In Collection(s)

1930s

Exhibitions:

Three Women: Madeleine Vionnet, Claire McCardell and Rei Kawakubo
Statement Sleeves
Fashioning the Modern Woman: The Art of the Couturiere, 1919-1939