91.20.3

Images (5)

Fundamental Forms. From left to right: dress by Madame Grès, 1978 (Angel Wing, 86.69.11); dress by Yves Saint Laurent, c.1968 (Bell, 2022.65.15); dress by Ossie Clark, c.1970 (Bishop, 94.111.1); dress by Ann Demeulemeester, fall 2001 (Batwing, 2002.17.1); man’s robe, circa 1925 (Kimono, 90.190.15); evening coat by Vionnet, 1938 (Lantern, P86.31.3); jacket, c.1895 (Leg-of-mutton, 91.20.3); suit by Fendi, c.1993 (Raglan, 2014.21.2).

From left to right: dress by Madame Grès, 1978 (86.69.11); dress by Yves Saint Laurent, c.1968 (2022.65.15); dress by Ossie Clark, c.1970 (94.111.1); dress by Ann Demeulemeester, fall 2001 (2002.17.1); man’s robe, c.1925 (90.190.15); evening coat by Vionnet, 1938 (P86.31.3); jacket, c.1895 (91.20.3); suit by Fendi, c.1993 (2014.21.2).

From left to right: dress by Ann Demeulemeester, fall 2001 (2002.17.1); man’s robe, c.1925 (90.190.15); evening coat by Vionnet, 1938 (P86.31.3); jacket, c.1895 (91.20.3); suit by Fendi, c.1993 (2014.21.2).

Jacket, c.1895 (left, 91.20.3); suit by Fendi, c.1993 (right, 2014.21.2).

Object: Jacket

Date: c. 1895

Medium: Silk faille

Country: USA

Credit Line: Gift of Geoffrey Beene

Object number: 91.20.3

DescriptionJacket in black silk faille; peter pan collar; large puffed (gigot) sleeves; front waist darts; princess back; self ruffle CF; hook closing at CF.

Label Text:Leg-of-mutton or gigot sleeves are distinguished by a puff of fabric from shoulder to elbow, contrasted by a tightly fitted forearm. This sleeve style has cycled in and out of fashion for centuries, but some of the most impressive examples date to the 1890s.

In Collection(s)

1700s-1800s

Exhibitions:

The Traphagen School: Fostering American Fashion
Statement Sleeves